Safe and sound in Eldoret

Well, after 3 days and over 30 hours of traveling, I finally made it here to Eldoret.  I thought my knees might never straighten out again after being bent in 90 degree angles for so long.  I met such interesting people on the planes. From Detroit to Amsterdam, I sat next to this crazy middle-aged women's studies professor from University of Washington.  She's from India, and was heading back to Delhi to see family. She was a handful, and a seatful, let's be honest. I've never understood how some people are comfortable just spreading out and overflowing into someone else's space. There's so little room on a plane to begin with, at least TRY to stay in your own bubble! Her entire arm was literally resting on mine for the duration of the flight.  And if I'd move around or anything, she'd just wait patiently with her arm suspended in midair until I settled back in, then she'd settle back in, right on top of me.  She rambled about women's rights, the economy in Africa, and all kinds of feminist scholars that I need to get into contact with. I kept saying, "Yes, but will these people be interested in music therapy?" The answer was usually a long-winded, round about way of saying, No, not really, well maybe, but they're famous scholars so you should know about them anyway. She was entertaining, that's for sure. She was racing to beat the clock and hopefully see her mother who was dying. I really hope she made it in time to see her.

The Amsterdam airport is really neat. Gunta told me it's one of her favorite airports and that I needed to look around no matter how tired I was. So I putzed here and there a bit during my lay over. There are tons of shops and stores, and you can even rent a hotel room right there in the airport. They have these fancy massage chairs that are completely enclosed.  They kind of look like one of those kids' virtual video game booths at museums. I didn't have any euros, and didn't want to exchange money to actually get a massage, I just really wanted to sit in this comfy-looking chair for a hot minute. I plopped down, leaned my head back to relax, then a few seconds later the machine started yelling at me. "PLEASE INSERT COINS OR VACATE THE CHAIR IMMEDIATELY." over and over and over again. This recorded voice was loud enough that people started looking. Jeez. So much for takin a load off in a comfy chair.  During my flight to Nairobi I met this couple--he was from Sri Lanka and she was from the Philippines. They both live and work in Dallas, TX.  I told them about my adventures and they were very supportive and encouraging. The guy said that when he was a young kid, volunteers came over to Sri Lanka and taught English and other vocational skills. He said that if they hadn't help to prepare him, he never would have left Sri Lanka and lived the life he's now thankful for in the states.

Customs, the visa process and all those shenanigans were actually not bad at all once I got to Nairobi. I was preparing to have my suitcase opened and underwear strewn (strone? strewed?) everywhere. But when I gave the man my form and started to lift my bag onto the table, he just waved me through and said, "Karibu," which means "Welcome" in Swahili.  I spent the night in a hotel in Nairobi, it was nice to finally get a good night's sleep. The cab driver I met, Eddie, was wonderful.  My first friend in Kenya. We were laughing and joking the whole way to the hotel. I was practicing some of the children's songs in Swahili that I've been working on (BUTCHERING them, of course) and he was laughing hysterically at me. He also gave me lots of practical tips about which cabs to avoid (so don't get into the one with the shady looking "TaXi" sign on a piece of wood duct taped to the roof of the run down, three-doored car?...ahhhh good to know.) He's also in a choir in Nairobi, and he said he'd love to have me join it! I'm finna sing in an African choir!! Who knew my audition would consist of singing kid songs in Swahili, terribly?  Anyway, he said he could work out a way to pick me up in Eldoret for Saturday rehearsals and take me to Nairobi. Sounds awesome.

On the dinky plane from Nairobi to Eldoret, I sat next to this woman, Chichi. She was so kind. She's from Eldoret and has been there practically all her life. She was sitting at the window seat and I was in the aisle seat. We were talking and waiting for the plane to take off, and all the sudden she grabbed me around the neck and shmushed my face practically into her chest/armpit to have me look out the window. I didn't know what I was supposed to look at, and then I saw a small, extravagant plane with something to the effect of Somalia-Air or the like on the side of it. Behind the plane were lines of big jeeps and other protective cars.  She told me that the President of Somalia was in that plane, and that's why we were having to wait so long to take off. Whoa. Anyway, she showed me pictures of her children and told me all the places I have to see in Eldoret. Then she gave me her contact info and said she plans to take her 3 children on a safari soon, and that I should come as her 4th child. So nice. She helped me with my bags, and then waited with me outside to make sure I had a safe ride into town. (Side note, it was pretty sweet being one of those people who has a cab driver waiting with a sign with my name on it...I felt like a baller. Shot caller. )

So now I'm in Eldoret!! The IU House-the dormish/hostelish place where I'm staying- is really, really nice. It's in a gated community with Kenyan guards. So far I've met Michael, he's hilarious and tells me not to go running too far, (I don't, MOM, don't worry :) ) and Philip. They both look like badass, mean guards, but then as soon as you say hi they crack this big smile and are super welcoming. And they have dogs!! Four of them at the gate, although, they're scrawny and ill fed, and I think they'd make terrible guard dogs if they were ever actually called to duty. BUT they gladly accept my affection every time I come in. There are four dogs, Chai, Toscar, and I can't remember the other two names yet, they're difficult to pronounce. I can only remember those two because one is tea, and one sounds like an opera.  My roommate, Noffar, is an Internal medicine resident from Mt. Sinai in New York.  I think we'll get along really well, she said she's glad to have some company.  The first night I was here I met a group of med students. They were in the common room drinking beer and playing cards. Ahhhh, sweet familiarity! I hung out with them for awhile and played cards and "Apples to Apples."  Pretty soon, guess who walked in to greet me...Sarah Ellen Mamlin!!! She welcomed me with open arms and brought me leftover Chinese food!  It was so good to finally meet her. I've heard nothing but amazing things about the Mamlins.  I think she'll be my main mentor here-she runs the Sally Test Pediatric Center that's located between the two peds units of the hospital. She's all about the emotional needs of hospitalized kids, and letting them play and just be KIDS. And her husband, Dr. Joe Mamlin is like, THEE man responsible for the entirety of this partnership that started back in the late 80's. The boss. The head honcho. The "it" guy.  The live within the IU compound in a house just down the road.  Sarah Ellen told me to show up at her house the next day, so I did. We sat on her couch and talked and talked, then they took me out to lunch at a local place in town (and out to dinner several hours later?! Shiesh, I'm lucky.) When we went into town Dr. Mamlin saw a patient of his sitting in a beat up wheelchair on the dusty road outside the restaurant we were going to. With one swift move he greeted her and invited her in to eat with us.  Pretty soon, he saw another woman and her 12 year old daughter, so they came and ate with us too. I'm starting to understand why everyone says the Mamlins are amazing people. So far there have been lots of options for vegetarian food--curry type dishes with lentils and rice. Good by me!

Alright all, I think I better wrap this up. Man, I'm a newbie at blogging, I've written for the past 45 minutes and I haven't even gotten to the good stuff yet! I'll hopefully be able to make future blogs more concise and less rambly. Just know that I'm HERE, and I'm happy and getting adjusted, and meeting lots and lots of people, both Kenyans and Americans that are connected with the IU-Moi partnership. Woot woot!

That's all for now,
Kathleen